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This is my way of being happy. It is adrenaline, curiosity, the continuous need to test oneself, the need for freedom and adventure.
August 2022
"Hike and fly" 8c - Sport climbing
August 2022
"Reality bites" 8c - Sport climbing
August 2022
"Voll das Leben" 8c - Sport climbing
August 2022
"Missing Link" 8c - Sport climbing
April 2022
Trad climbing - "Jeune et con" 8b? R/X
April 2022
Trad climbing - "Waiting for..." 8bR (F.A.)
November 2021
Trad climbing - "Into the sun 8c+" - 2nd ascent
October 2021
FA "Shikantaza" (8a R/X) - Trad Climbing
October 2021
FA "Blood Diamond" 8c (?) - Trad climbing
July 2021
"Joy Paradise" (8b, 800mertri), Qualido - Big wall
April 2021
"Robert's project" (8b+/c? FA) - Sport climbing
April 2021
"Oni no hanzo" (8c FA) - Sport climbing
March 2021
"Small steps, big changes" (8B fb FA) - Bouldering
November 2020
Sport climbing - "Sprengstoff" (9a FA)
November 2020
Sport climbing - "BCT" (8c)
October 2020
Trad Climbing - "Bruce Lee" (8a+) FA
October 2020
Trad climbing - "Anna Kournikova" (8a+)
October 2020
Trad climbing - "Know yourself" (E7 6c) o.s
October 2020
Trad climbing - "Greenspit" 8b
September 2020
Big Wall - "Odyssee" (8a+, 1400m) in 16 hours
August 2020
Multipitch - "Freedom" (8b, 250m)
August 2020
Sport climbing - "Road to Hell" (8c)
July 2020
Sport climbing - "Holzhacker" 8c FA
July 2020
Sport climbing - "Sauhund" (8c)
June 2020
Sport climbing - " Ganesha" (8c/+)
May 2020
Sport climbing - "Don Pedro" (8c+)
May 2020
Sport climbing - "Gondor" (8c)
May 2020
Sport climbing - "Der Gral" (8c)
May 2020
Sport climbing - "Catharsis" (8c)
May 2020
Sport climbing - "Pendragon" (8c+/9a? FA)
May 2020
Sport climbing - "Brandy Tarte" (8c/+)
Perseverance, motivation, failures and success. 6 years of effort to eventually climb my dream line and hardest route.
ViewSeptember 2019
Sport climbing - "The maximum moment of love" (8c)
September 2019
Sport climbing - "Instruktor" (8c+/9a FA)
July 2019
Sport climbing - FA of "Big papa" (8b+)
July 2019
Sport climbing - "El poder de la Cuzquena Negra" (8c)
June 2019
Multi-pitch - "Father Time" (5.13b, 600m)
June 2019
Sport climbing - "Groovy", 8c (8c+?)
May 2019
Sport climbing - "Everything is Karate", 8c+
May 2019
Sport climbing - "Body Building", 8c
April 2019
Sport climbing - "Speed Integrale" 9a
The north face of the Eiger is one of the most famous walls in the Alps. I had been dreaming of climbing a route through that sea of rock for years. "Odyssee", first ascended in 2015, climbs the most overhanging part of the wall and it was still waiting for a second free ascent.
ViewDecember 2018
Sport climbing - "Necessary Evil" 8c+
October 2018
Multi-pitch - "Delicatessen" (8b, 130m)
May 2018
Trad climbing - FA "Unsung Memories" 8a R
May 2018
Sport climbing - "Atlantic" 8c
May 2018
Trad climbing - "Socialmente Inutile L1" 8b R (E8 6c without fixed copperheads)
May 2018
Sport climbing - "Speedball" 8c
May 2018
Sport climbing - "Geometrie Diagonali" 8c
May 2018
Sport climbing - "Quello che non c'è" 8c+
The line of “Magic Mushroom” is impressive: the last 400 metres of the route follow a system of extremely smooth corners which at first sight seem impossible to climb; to overcome them you need a good dose of agility and “physical creativity”.
ViewThe landscape is surreal: perfect walls of limestone looming over the ocean, creating narrow canyons between meadows which looked like gardens.
ViewWe wanted to climb the route respecting the ethics of those who had previously opened the route, climbing from the ground up without adding bolts.
View“Gondo Crack” is a very logical line, which doesn’t need any bolts to be climbed. Climbed this way it definitely requires more effort, but it manages to transmit stronger emotions.
View“La Rambla” is not only the symbolic route of Siurana, but it has also played an important role in the history of climbing. I have always looked up to it with reverence and admiration.
ViewAugust 2017
Multi-pitch - "Invisibilis" - 7c+ 450m flash
August 2017
Multi-pitch - "Sangre de toro" - 8b+ 250m
July 2017
Tradclimbing - "Point Blank" - E8 6c
July 2017
Tradclimbing - "Do you know where your children are?" - E8 6c
July 2017
Tradclimbing - "Chupacabra" - E9 6c
May 2017
Tradclimbing - "Angeber nein danke" - 8b R FA
May 2017
Sportclimbing - "L’ultima Reini" - 8c+
May 2017
Sportclimbing - "Profi" - 8b+ flash
April 2017
Sportclimbing - "Standhaft" - 8c
We chose to climb “Zodiac” because the other routes on El Cap were already crowded. Few people talked about it therefore I thought it had a few repetitions, but I never imagined that before us, it had only been repeated once.
ViewAs a child I couldn’t understand how one could invest so much time and energy into climbing a route, furthermore risking very serious injuries.
ViewSeptember 2016
Tradclimbing - “A denti stretti” - 8b/+ - Balma
September 2016
Tradclimbing - “Profondo rosso” - 8a+ - Balma
September 2016
Multi-pitch - “La Cattedrale” - 8a, 800m - Marmolada
September 2016
Multi-pitch - “Via attraverso il pesce” - 7b+, 900m o.s. - Marmolada
July 2016
Multi-pitch - “Non ci resta che piangere” - 8a+, 250m - Piz Ciavazes
July 2016
Multi-pitch - “New Age” - 8a+, 150m - Rätikon
June 2016
Multi-pitch - “Golden shower” - 8b+, 150m - Gorges du Verdon
Link
May 2016
Tradclimbing - “Requiem” - E8 6c - Dumbarton Rock
April 2016
Sportclimbing - “Helel Ben Schachar” - 8c - Kalkhofen
April 2016
Sportclimbing - “Unleashed” - 8c+ - Kalkhofen“Helel Ben Schachar”
"Psychogramm" is a bouldery route, characterized by a long run out on a tiny nut. To fall at the end of this section could be extremely dangerous.
ViewI consider Lapoterapia one of the most beautiful routes in Ossola. The line follows a narrow crack which carves through the most overhanging section of the Osso crag.
ViewYosemite National Park is a true mecca for those who love climbing on big walls: free climbing El Capitan has always been one of my biggest dreams.
ViewIn my imagination Siberia was flat, cold and snowy: I never thought I would climb there.
ViewMay 2015
Multi-pitch - "La Ramirole" - 8b, 150m - Gorges du Verdon
April 2015
Sportclimbing - "Helmutant" - 9a - Saustall
March 2015
Sportclimbing - “Harry’s dirty brother” - 8c/+ FA - Lorüns
When I think back to the period in which I alternated competitions with rock, I distinctively remember a few routes which inspired me, but at the same time scared me. “Prinzip Hoffnung” was one of them.
ViewOctober 2014
Tradclimbing - "Le prix de la liberté" - 8a+ FA - Ossola
May 2014
Multi-pitch - "Super Cirill" - 8a/+, 200m - Val Bavona
February 2014
Sportclimbing - "Fish eye" - 8c - Oliana
February 2014
Sportclimbing - "Gorillas en la niebla" - 8b+ o.s. - Oliana
February 2014
Sportclimbing - "Mind control" - 8c - Oliana
February 2014
Sportclimbing - "Joe Blau" - 8c+ - Oliana
There are routes that take over our imagination for no reason at all: “Des Kaisers Neue Kleider” is an example. I had never seen the line in person, but for some weird reason I wanted to climb it.
ViewIt was the first time I set off for a destination uniquely to explore it, without a project in mind.
ViewJune 2013
Multi-pitch - "Vent ani do" - 8a+ max, 300m o.s. - Meisules
November 2012
Sportclimbing - "Transworld depravityl" - 8b+ flash - Red River Gorge
November 2012
Sportclimbing - "Omaha Beach" - 8b+ o.s. - Red River Gorge
November 2012
Sportclimbing - "Southern Smoke Direct" - 9a - Red River Gorge
January 2012
Sportclimbing - "Kalea Borroka" - 8b+ flash - Siurana
November 2010
Competition - Campione Italiano Boulder
August 2009
Sportclimbing - "Bah Bah Black Sheep" - 8c/+ - Ceuse
July 2009
Sportclimbing - "Dures limites" - 8c - Ceuse
June 2009
Sportclimbing - "Reni’s Vibes" - 8c/+ - Massone