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Jacopo Larcher
Jacopo
Jacopo
EVOLUTION
The constant evolution that climbing requires is an essential part of its beauty, I am convinced of this. I was 10 years old when I discovered climbing and since then I have never stopped redefining my limits and adapting to new challenges.
Jacopo
Something about me
Date of birth
13.10.1989
Grown up in
Bolzano (IT)
Resident in
Bludenz (AU), or in my van
Favourite destinations
Yosemite, Indian creek and South Africa
Favourite book
Narcissus and Goldmund, H. Hesse
Favourite film
The green mile
Favourite food
Sandwich with pecorino cheese, dried tomatoes, humus and avocado
Languages spoken
Italian, English, French, German
Other passions
Photography, skiing, coffee
What inspires you?
People who aren’t scared of trying to achieve their dreams; the creative work of some photographers
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Motto
The only constant is change
Jacopo
CLIMBING
Looking back now I realise how much the great passion I had for climbing has helped me to grow. Guiding, one climb after another, the transformation from the child I was to the man I have now become.
Jacopo
BIOGRAPHY
THE BEGINNING
I was born and grew up in South Tyrol, and taking my first “vertical” steps at the age of ten, in the gym, where the feeling of freedom I tasted while climbing fascinated me so much that I chose to invest all of my energy into this sport, realizing early on that the effort I put in was always rewarded.
MY FIRST VERTICAL STEPS
Two years from the beginning, I casually got in touch with the world of competitions, coming in second in my first ever competition. Encouraged by the positive outcome, I dedicated body and soul to competing, winning the youth national championships for a number of years, in both the boulder and lead specialities, and also competing abroad as part of the Italian National team. The victory at the Italian Championships of Bouldering in 2010 represents one of the most significant results as well as a turning point, because straight after I decided to give up on the universe of competitions.
THE FIRST GREAT MOMENT OF CHANGE
Motivated by the desire to tackle new challenges, my interest moved towards different aspects of climbing, passing from trad climbing to multi-pitch routes, to ice climbing and expeditions. It was never easy to let go of my origins, that is sports climbing and competitions, but I was determined to toe the line; that moment marked a new beginning, the time to test myself on more severe and stimulating conditions.
A NEW MORE COMPLETE WORLD
The latest adventures tackled are motivating me to persevere in my current passions: I aim to travel searching for my perfect line, with the dream of opening, in a remote area of the Earth, a route which is able to summarise the path undertaken as a climber. It is an ambitious dream, which I hope to achieve following my philosophy “the only constant is change”: to mature as a person and climber, in sport as in life, one must never fear of moving out of your comfort zone.
Jacopo
EXPLORING
Throughout the years, climbing has turned from a simple sport to a way of life: it has become a tool to learn and to grow, to explore the world, outside and inside myself.
Jacopo
SIGNIFICANT STAGES
- 2021
- 2020
- 2019
- 2018
- 2017
- 2016
- 2015
- 2014
- 2013
- 2012
- 2010
- 2009
2021
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Trad climbing - FA "Blood Diamond" 8c (?), Valle dell'Orco (Italy)
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Trad climbing - "Into the sun 8c+", Murgtal (Switzerland) - 2nd ascent
2020
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Sport climbing - "Sprengstoff" (9a FA), Lorüns
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Trad climbing - "Greenspit" - Valle dell'Orco (Italy)
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Big Wall - "Odyssee" (8a+, 1400m) in 16 hours - Eiger (CH)
2019
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Sport climbing - "Instruktor" (8c+/9a FA) - Au (AT)
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Multipitch - "The Nose" (8b+, 900m) - El Capitan (USA)
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Multipitch - "Headless children" (8b, 350m) - Rätikon (Switzerland)
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Multipitch - "Zeit zum atmen" (8b, 250m) - Rote Wand (Austria)
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Multipitch - "Silbergeier" (8b+, 200m) - Rätikon (Switzerland)
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Sport climbing - "Everything is Karate", 8c+ - Pine Creek Canyon (USA)
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Sport climbing - "Speed Integrale" 9a - Voralpsee (CH)
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Trad Climbing - "Tribe" - Cadarese (Italy)
2018
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Sport climbing - "Necessary Evil" 8c+ -VRG (USA)
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Multi-pitch - "Delicatessen" - 8b, 130m- Bavella (France)
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Big Wall - "Odyssee" (8a+, 1400m) - Eiger (CH)
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Trad climbing - "The Path" 5.14a R - Lake Louise (Canada)
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Sport climbing - "Quello che non c'è" 8c+ - Val Masino (Italy)
2017
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Sportclimbing - "A Muerte" - 8c+/9a - Siurana (Spagna)
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Sportclimbing - "La Rambla" - 9a+ - Siurana (Spagna)
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Tradclimbing - "Gondo Crack" - 8c/R - Cippo (Switzerland)
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Sportclimbing - "Profi" - 8b+/flash - Au (Austria)
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Tradclimbing - "Big Issue" - E9/6c - Pembroke (UK)
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Tradclimbing - "Muy Caliente" - E9/E10 6c - Pembroke (UK)
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Multi-pitch - "Cosi’ parlo’ Zarathustra" - 7c, 230m First Free Ascent - Trono di Osiride (Italia)
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Multi-pitch - "Sangre de toro" - 8b+, 250m - Rote Wand (Austria)
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Multi-pitch - "Invisibilis" - 7c+, 450m flash - Marmolada (Italia)
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Multi-pitch - "Free Magic Mushroom" - 5.14a, 900m - El Capitan (USA)
2016
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Tradclimbing - "Rhapsody" - E11 7a - Dumbarton Rock (UK)
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Sportclimbing - "Underground" - 8c+/9a - Massone (Italia)
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Multi-pitch - "Golden shower" - 8b+, 150m - Gorges du Verdon (Francia)
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Multi-pitch - "New Age" 8a+, 150m - Rätikon (Svizzera)
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Multi-pitch - "Via attraverso il pesce" 7b+, 900m o.s. - Marmolada (Italia)
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Multi-pitch - "La Cattedrale" - 8a, 800m - Marmolada (Italia)
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Multi-pitch - "Free Zodiac" - 5.13d ,600m - El Capitan (USA)
2015
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Sportclimbing - "Helmutant" - 9a Saustall (Italia)
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Multi-pitch - "Exploration trip to Siberia" - Bilibino (Russia)
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Multi-pitch - "El Nino" - 8.13b A0, 800m - El Capitan (USA)
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Tradclimbing - "Lapoterapia" - 8c, First Trad Ascent - Osso (Italia)
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Tradclimbing - "Psycogramm" - 8b+ trad - Bürser Platte (Austria)
2014
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Tradclimbing - "Prinzip Hoffnung" - E9/E10 8b - Bürser Platte (Austria)
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Sportclimbing - "Gorillas en la niebla" - 8b+ o.s. - Oliana (Spagna)
2013
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Multi-pitch - "First Ascent of Zembrocal" - 8c max, 150m - La Chapelle Reunion Island (France)
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Multi-pitch - "Vent ani do" 8a+ max, 300m o.s. - Meisules (Italia)
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Multi-pitch - "Des Kaisers neue Kleider" - 8b+ max, 250m - Fleischbank Pfeiler (Austria)
2012
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Sportclimbing - "Kalea Borroka" - 8b+ flash - Siurana (Spagna)
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Sportclimbing - "Southern Smoke Direct" 9a - Red River Gorge (USA)
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Sportclimbing - "Omaha Beach" - 8b+ o.s. - Red River Gorge (USA)
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Sportclimbing - "Transworld depravityl" - 8b+ flash - Red River Gorge (USA)
2010
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Competition - Campione Italiano Boulder - Novembre
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Sportclimbing - "Reni’s Vibes" - 8c/+ - Massone (Italia)
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Sportclimbing - "Dures limites" - 8c - Ceuse (Francia)
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Sportclimbing - "Bah Bah Black Sheep" - 8c/+ - Ceuse (Francia)
Jacopo Larcher
Sponsors
Jacopo Larcher
Partners